Category Archives: general chicken management

How much does it cost to ship a chicken?

He went to a home in Texas

Last year I ran into trouble because a neighbor complained about the crowing with several visits from animal control – even though we life in a fully agriculturally zoned area. Since I am renting,  it was suggested to get rid of all but 2 roosters. I could not bring myself to get those roosters killed and tried to find homes for them – not an easy thing as became obvious. I was successful with several of them. Much was learned in all of that, not the least about the actual cost of shipping roosters via airmail  – here is a blog-post about it – it is on the blog site I had before this website – here is the  link -> How much does it cost to ship chickens?

How to deal with roosters

How to deal with roosters

This is a bit lengthy and originated from a conversation over the internet. (I first wrote it for the blogspot blog, but since the surveillance revelation, I am moving stuff to a website). This article does contain examples for certain behaviors of some of my roosters. If you plan to raise roosters – you might find it helpful. (at the time of this transfer, we are another 4 months out – and still no problems with roosters.)

When dealing with roosters, a lot has been written about rooster to rooster aggression and rooster to human aggression. This post is more focused on  the rooster to human relationship. I wanted my roosters friendly towards me at all times – at the very least, I did not want to look over my shoulder walking in chickenland.
Given my current experience, if you have enough space and females, and tolerant neighbors, you can keep a LOT of roosters without much if any trouble.

Rooster behavior varies with breed/genetics, age, season, absence or presence of females, food supply, living space and conditions, time of day,  flock dynamic and how they are treated.

I tip ahead of time: figure 1 rooster per 7-12 hens – if you have several more roosters, you might want to consider a rooster pen with a separate pop door to a rooster area – no later that 3 1/2 months. Some roos mature early, some only a few months later. It is not that the roosters are a problem with you or each other – it is difficult on the hens to have so many on them, especially as the pullets don’t mature all on the same day and the few that mature early have to bear them all. If you raise dual purpose chickens and have straight runs – separate the roos out at 2 months – or earlier if you can tell.

I think roosters are killed for space, noise and because they do not lay eggs and cost money to feed and not all of them are needed to raise chicks or for flock protection, so they can be food. They need not be killed for aggression, but that takes a certain way to raise them.

Jumping ahead:

There are 2 ways to see ourselves with roosters that I find acceptable to me and work with because it means never to fight with them or hurt them:

Both ways do require flock/rooster awareness and observation.

1 – we are humans and not chickens, let alone  roosters that need to fight and they learn to see us as a benign presence. We don’t need to fight them because we don’t antagonize them or treat them as roosters competitors – but give them the respect and space that a rooster needs – and walking in “chicken Tai-Chi”.
2 – we need to be like top roosters to them – but – we don’t have to accomplish that by fighting them…but at the first sign of them trying to assert dominance, we are either steady, ie just stay put – or ward them off with a step or two towards them. Some folks use a stick as an extended arm. We keep them at a distance and don’t try to make them pets. Also, isolation can be tried. They tend to be much more demure upon re-rentering a flock after a day or 2 in a cage or crate. Picking them up and releasing them when calm is another way to getting them used to us not being a threat.

Since I also wanted friendly roosters who also come to me for treats …. this was going to be a balance game.

In  9 months I raised 32 roos of 6 different breeds (Sicilian buttercups, Egyptian Fayoumi, Blue Andalusian, Buff Catalana and Buff Minorca, Golden Polish) and 21 hens in a pretty small area – …and here are some things regarding behavior I have learned so far (no experience yet with broody hens, I hear they get pretty feisty and their peck hurts a lot).

General things to remember about chickens and roosters – based on observation and experience and because it has worked very well. All my roosters turned out friendly and all come for treats.

0 – chickens are amazing and can open your heart – AND – always remember, they are chickens and will act according to their programming and depending on genetics, season, temperament, hormones and circumstances …there can be surprises….never take it personally.
1 – beaks and feet – as weather gets warm, I like to wear just tank tops and sandals …but …when in the chicken world…that does not work for my skin because their little feet are no longer soft baby feet. Even them innocently flying on my bare shoulders I have gotten scratched bloody and still have the scars from that. Also, I wear a cap when I spend time with them at all, especially if I sit or crouch …because them landing on my head …hurts like hell since they got bigger than the little peeps they were. -> be aware of their feet on your skin. Chickens have a lot of sharpness in their beaks ..your eyes are NOT safe around them …be aware. Gums are not as critical, but it DOES hurt when they go for your teeth.
2 – bending down, sitting or being in a crouched position appears to be an invitation to fly on you …no matter what the intention.
3 – better to not show bare skin on lower legs unless you can say you know all your roosters so well that they would NEVER try to hit you ….I don’t think I can ever be that sure …..mating season is just starting and who knows what will happen this year and with this combination of birds.
4 – talking to the rooster now: no matter how friendly things get, you are a chicken – and/or rooster and hormones can make you act weird and a little out of control. I shall never forget that. (see stories below). Talking to some pullets:  If you are hungry and looking for treats – your peck can draw blood (they have not yet with me …but I have no doubt they could) Seeing teeth seems to be a MAJOR invitation to try to go for them with results in my lips or gums experiencing some searing pain ….that I have experienced.
5 – treats will go a LOOOONG way to friendly relations (which is what I want) with hens and roos. To a point. And treats do not have to be hand-fed. You can throw them.
6 – I am unwilling to have to look over my shoulder when entering any area that is inhabited by chickens.
If there is a problem, you (chicken) have about 2 – 3 weeks to change before I make arrangements for you to be someone’s dinner, and I tell you so. I give you time because I know hormones seem to spike and you have seem trouble with your behavior.
Me, I will do whatever I know so the behavior that is unacceptable stops….I won’t antagonize you and give you more space, might pick you up or chase you back a few steps.
If we can’t live together and if I can’t find a home – I will arrange for you a death that is as humane as possible. (cone, bleeding out without cutting windpipe in our case)
7 – I want my roos to come for treats – and I want them to respect me at all times. – so i offered treats from day 1, I always move in what I now call “Chicken tai-chi” Chickens see twice as fast compared to us. Even walking normally is fast to them. Slow down!!!!!!!!.
8 – When I see you (roo of any age) doing that “shoulder- wing thing”, I know it is not a dance for me – I might give you more space, stay put or sometimes I will back away, but I will never get angry. I know giving you treats in your face at that time works for some of you, but not all of you all the time. So if you don’t stop …I will move towards you if you start following me with intent to chase or worse after I give you some space …and might point my finger at you, say eh-eh-eh e – in a low growly voice…and might keep going towards you until you back off. If needed, you will be chased.
9 – to the roos: if you come AT me as if you owned the place a second time …I stand my ground, be tall and point my arm and finger in your direction. I am prepared with my bamboo stick and, wearing proper footwear, step towards you …and if you actually jump me a second time ….I will start chasing you …one step at a time but across the field if needed. If I need to, I will touch your fluffy butt …and I know you will jump each time and back of because you don’t like that.
I use a stick as my extended arm.
10 – to the roos: I will never feed you treats before I have thrown some to the hens. (unless of course there are only roos around)
11 – if I catch you treating others in a way not acceptable, I will pick you up from them and put you in a holding place – that help you cool you down.
12 – I do break up some fights or mounting of hens when it is happening right where I am. At times I just pick them off and carry them elsewhere. If I am worried about really damage to another chicken, I separate them. But no matter what, they will work things out.
13 – It seems that whoever is lowest on pecking order ….is looking for someone lower if they can…. you don’t want that to be you.
Generally: roosters are better to keep a little distance with. It is good for them to know who is in charge (you) – at the same time, when you throw treats, they can offer them to the hens and finally eat some too. Pick them up from the roost periodically and set them back down.
I think Big Boy (the sweetest rooster I will ever know in this life) is really different – but then …he too is only 9 months old and he was SOOOO friendly from day 1. I am not sure what the deal is with him.
Regarding Gully, the feisty Egyptian Fayoumi:
Gully, an Egyptian Fayoumi,  was originally with the orchard roos at 4 months when I separated my first straight run (17 roos was just too much for the 9 pullets) but kept traveling around to the mixed flock field. I never had a problems with him and thought he was the best. He was a curious smart little guy, greeting me when I came into the garden. He eventually self integrated into that mixed flock and I let him, even though they did not need any more males there. One day ..i think he was almost 6 months, I walked into the mixed flock field and I felt a thud against my leg from behind. I didn’t even know what it was, but when I looked around, there he was, Gully looking at me ……( a little shocked & disappointed was I) …but then nothing else happened for a couple of days but then I say he was following me kind of with his chest out …I used treats and that worked but he was still following me …. then he did that thing again where he hit my lower legs …well, that is when I started turning around earlier and stepped towards him, I never had to use the stick on him, …only chased him halfway across the field a couple of times and that was it. After that, he behaved like a charm the rest of the time here. But mating season had not yet started and it was too cold to sit about in the field or do weeding.
i remembered 1 thing that i don’t know how it plays into how he is is acting. At the end of september 2012, the folks here got 2 young aussies that were not very socialized. i was helping them to handle the dogs.  the property at the time was not fenced and the only “dog” yard were they could run was next to the chicken-gardenfield.
gully had figured out how he could squeeze through the fence opening in the fence that separates the chicken and the general/dog area (i had used some old horse fencing prior to getting chickens not realizing that some of the chickens would be small enough to be able to get though it …and in fact wanted to go through it.) anyway ..that fence didn’t keep gully from making his rounds.
sometime in october, one of the dogs almost got him (only by the wingtip, and no physical injury, but it was still scary) when he was in the dog yard.
so a couple of weeks later when i took the other dog there. i made sure gully was not in the dog yard. he was on the other side of the fence….before i let the dog  loose i noticed gully had gone through the fence and was charging the dog …who was as surprised as me…i did not let them fight but left with the dog. i seemed like gully would have won ….meaning the dog was stopped from advancing and might have retreated.
gully didn’t do his jumping on my leg until after that. i don’t know if or how it played a role in setting something up in a confrontational way though. even when i stand my ground with other roos if i need to, i try to never let it come to a real confrontation.  anyway, just a little piece of info.
Orchard roos adolescent behavior:
several of them, maybe all – did that wing thing with me, it is not a dance, it is trying to see who is higher in the pecking order – and is is a sign saying: hey, you are too close …I live here. If you can – give them space, back up a little and go around to where you were headed. If I had to change the water, I stand my ground and wing them right back, if needed, using my arms, make myself look big and confident, these days not waiting till it gets worse. .. If they actually follow me and come at me, which only happened twice,  I will pretend to chase them off if need be. One of them I had to chase and do the “touch your butt with the stick thing” with because he was coming at me. He jumped a few times. He was some punk, but it worked. What also works is picking them up and holding them till calm. The problem is: I’d have had to chase them for that and that sort of was beside the point then. The picking up and holding them and putting them back down works best off and onto the roost.
Misbehaving roos: 

Roosters misbehaving with the pullets or each other: I pick them up and carry them off, break up any fights happening right in front of me. Several of them spend a day in what used to be the brooder box. I would also isolate them for a day and then let them back with the flock. Usually their behavior is much better, though you can’t really keep them from working out the pecking order. This is when it helps to just not be there for a while …and also provide enough food that fighting over food need not to be the case.

The Buff Catalana roo territorial phase:

The buff catalanas, bigger than any of my other roos, where hitting adolescence at 4 months recently. Soon after, the main dude with all the roos, started going after me trying to prevent me from going into their area to feed them. He only tried that twice because I chased him right back which only took a couple of steps towards him a couple of times at which point he kept his distance…and I had to work with treats to even have him come close again – that took about 2 weeks, but he never gave me any problem again.

One of them, (I have 3 there) in the mixed flock, tried to chase me out of the coop one evening about 2 weeks ago …well, I didn’t go for that and chased him out instead …no more problems since then. Again, it does not take more than a couple of steps. They all come for treats, but generally, I do not mind them staying a bit away, be respectful of me without being fearful and they are always the last to get treats, but they do get them and come for them. They are more cautious of the other roo in their group than me.
Roosters are males and they are gonna do what roosters do.

Another thing I do is to go into the coop and touch them while roosting, mostly because most of them some day I need to pick up and put into a crate to get brought to they place of culling and I don’t want them to get all freaked out. I have only recently started to pick the chickens up (other than when they were babies) just in case I need to treat them for some medical thing some day.

My current head roo of the flock also tried to “wing” me once, a while back – a couple of steps towards him was all he needed. Of course,, houdini as he is, iI plucked him off the roost a bunch of times to carry him to the rooster only roost, until one day I just let him stay…he has been behaving perfectly.
Secret is – always stay calm, and don’t wait for it to get worse. Either modfy your behavior to give them more space, or stand your ground, and  chase them a couple of steps or touch their butt with your little stick. I have never had to yell, really run-chase or actually hit a rooster – and I don’t ever want to. I do not want to have an actual fight, and remember, do not take it personally when your sweet roo suddenly remembers his protective duties and starts coming after you marching into “his” territory. He is just wanting to protect his flock.
Their claws really hurt bare skin, even if they just want to sit on you. Their beaks can cause pain in no time just from pecking curiosity.
Just as an example on what hormones can do:

one almost 3 months old roo was chasing a hen relentlessly one evening ….finally stopped when he was roosting. Then, the next day …whenever his feet hit the ground he hysterically ran around …he literally could not stop until went hiding under something all out of breath and freaked out, then it started all over. I finally put him in the coop on a roost …this went on for 3 days ….i even did one of those online vet things…(waste of money) to see if he had some kind of disease.

I had to hand feed him and give him water in a syringe for 3 days. Then, after 3 days, he would still run around as soon as his feet touched the ground but could make himself stop when there were other chickens pecking around….he still spent a lot of time on the roost. It took a few more days till he was all back to normal ….no problem since.
Incidentally, that night before he had this problem there also was a thunderstorm. So it might have added to his “flighty” behavior.
Anyway – I hope this helped. It has worked well for me. Even the golden polish are sweet, but unfortunately they can’t stop chasing the buttercups, especially one of them seems to be popular with EVERYONE. In any case, I am just gonna spoil them till they have to go – it is only a few more days.
More on rooster management
Since I found that isolating them seems to also help (tried that with the polish and way back once with who is now the top roos with the flock), if I were in your situation with him having jumped on me and he misbehaved towards me again and I didn’t want to get into chasing or more confrontation to ward him off, I might pick Gully up from the roost or a pullet he is topping and carry him to a box or little coop to put him by himself, give him food and water there and keep him overnight and then let him out to join the others late morning…as I call them all over to throw out food.
Also – I generally don’t let them hop on me uninvited. – and my flock – the pullets mostly though) sees a sitting position (I hand-feed treats that way) or extended/lifted arm as an invitation to fly on it or me.
As best as I can tell, there are 2 ways to see ourselves with roosters that I accept and work with because it means never to fight with them or hurt them.
Both ways do require flock/rooster awareness and observation.
1 – we are humans and not roosters and they learn to see us as a benign presence, we don’t need to fight them because we don’t antagonize them and treat them as roosters competitors – giving them the respect and space that a rooster needs – and walking in “chicken Tai-Chi”
2 – we need to be like top roosters to them – but – we don’t have to accomplish that by fighting them…but at the first sign of them trying to assert dominance, we are either steady, ie just stay put – or ward them off with a step or two towards them. Some folks use a stick as an extended arm. We keep them at a distance and don’t try to make them pets. Also, isolation can be tried. They tend to be much more demure upon re-rentering a flock after a day or 2 in a cage or crate. Picking them up and releasing them when calm is another way to getting them used to us not being a threat.
Since I also wanted friendly roosters who also come to me for treats …. this was going to be a balance game.
If the methods do not work and there is a rooster that becomes more and more aggressive – he needs to find another home, one way or another….Somehow I would take that to mean that whatever I do or did, was not working fior this particular rooster. I would not want to breed him with those characteristics – unless I had huge acreage where he was  truly needed  him to protect his flock.
Before I ever go any chickens, got my first impression on how to deal with roosters from reading Harvey Ussery’s book: The Small Scale Poultry Flock. Best single book on chicken keeping I can imagine, though I have much to learn on culling if I really wanted to breed chickens. (I don’t want to kill those beautiful birds, so …).
What I took from him in regards to rooster management was
1 – You are not a chicken. You are not a rooster. You have other options. You do not need to fight.
2 – Respect the birds and the space they live in and work with it – and with them, not against them.
3 – treats go a long way for amicable relations with your roosters. It confuses them ..no rooster would do that to another rooster that would threaten him.
4 – Don’t have pet roosters
5 – Be aware of what your birds are doing.
This looked like this in my situation:

My orchard roos were hanging out in the back by the orchard (as opposed to the front of the coop garden field area. When I had to pass by the area to another part of the garden, I noticed a couple of them would start approaching and doing that “wing thing” – I would just give them a little more space and be on my way and all was well.

When I came in with the bag of kitchen scraps – they might start the same way, but then, hearing my chicky ckicky and seeing me emptying the bag …they soon forgot about their territoriality and came closer looking for titbits.
The water station was in the middle of their space and I would have to enter it (because I usually didn’t think of filling up the water before I let them out..:) i’d say my “it’s okaaayyy chicky”… so when they came close to me doing “the wing thing”, I would stay put or do my chickchikchik …and throw them or hand-feed them some choice treats and all was well. I just never had a problem and over time …they didn’t seem to mind my doing what I had to do there.
Maybe it was because they got used to it – maybe it really is a challenge for them when their hormones spike?? Maybe I saw be as a on threat?

On the coop side this meant: I get the eggs after the hens leave and the roosters are not around.

I wait to dump new leaves onto the coop floor when they are out in the field because big bags, especially the black ones, FREAKS THEM OUT, even if I walk very slowly, they are afraid. Once I showed up with a big black bag at the coop door and most of the buffs where still there …they totally freaked and would not come near me for a day. So since the kitchen scraps usually show up in white bags…i now use white if I can or make sure they are elsewhere if I have a big black bag with leaves. This is what I mean by respect their space. I make some adjustment and all is well.

 

So the respect, giving them space & treats worked well in general.

But then there was Gully who hit my lower leg one day when I was walking into the garden field not paying any attention to them. Mind you, I had just gone onto the field not paying attention to them at all, just going where I wanted to go. One of the orchard roos made his territory in a walkway area that I needed to traverse to get to the buff roos, and later a couple of those buff cockerels who had thought they established their ruler-ship around their roost box/coop daring me and were not just doing the wing thing but were daring me a little more and the golden polish who started winging me.

I think eventually respect and treats might have worked, but I sort of might have inadvertently antagonized him with the dog incident. I did some more reading and a lot of folks said: make sure you are to top rooster …hm. Those folks also were all recommending to leave space between you and any roosters and not have them be anything like pets. So I chased him back a couple of times, that worked.
Of the other methods I chose to  – get a stick as the arm extension to pat their fluffy butt and don’t be a pushover….chase them If needed.
Again, doing that, there is no need to fight them ….and – always be vigilant.
So that is what I did without being angry, aggressive and very controlled just to make it clear that some behavior would not be tolerated.
That worked.Afterwards I will call the flock over and trow some treats.

PICKING THEM UP – without hurting them. I also got into the habit of picking them up off hens that complained if I was right there. One of them, who got himself into the coop over and over from the rooster side  – I picked him up and carried him back to his own roost area until one day I just just let him be with the flock …and he NEVER gave me any problem since he is with the hens and he is the head roo now. While I can’t prove anything …it seems to help with the respect thing from their side.
I also continued (and never stopped) to call the flock over and give the best treats when approaching and entering their space. It worked really well and I did not have problems.
The flock absolutely loves it when I come with a spade and start digging around in their field …in fact, they sometimes hop on the shovels (2 pullets) – they are loving the insects/worms
Keep in mind that my cockerels are now 5 – 9 months old and do not yet have spurs to speak of and mating season was yet to come.
Well, mating season is here and they are a lot more active with the pullets, but I still don’t have any problems with them. I still had 5 roos with 21 pullets, the 2 Golden Polish and 12 bachelors.

The bachelor roosters are not giving me a problem. The 2 golden polish are also not a problem …they approach me only to see if I have treats for them….but in the past, when one of them would “wing” me …I just stepped towards him till he walked away and after a few moments called him with the “chikchik” sound gave him some treats or threw them in the direction I wanted him to go.

My philosophy is to do the best for them ….even if that means they are doing the rooster thing and are not like pets. Remember, Gully went against a dog that had come into “his” area ….. and I thought: he’d give his life to defend the flock. At the same time, I did have to assert myself by catching him in his approach and not letting him jump on me. It is a fine balance because you don’t want to antagonize them and set up a rooster/rooster type situation between you and them.
I’m sure there is more to learn as they get older – or rather, there would be – because I have to get rid of them in the next couple of weeks – all but maybe 1 or 2. But that is another story.
All I can say is: the more land you have the better and if you own it,  you have a say in what happens, and just because you are zoned fully agricultural does not mean the neighbors won’t call animal control for rooster noise…even though there was not a neighbor problem before.Some were meant to be culled by someone who eats them, but in the end, that is not the reason they will be killed.

They will be killed because of noise complaints even in a fully agriculturally zoned area, NOT because any of them were aggressive.

I was able to re-home a total of  8 of my roosters to far – and time is running out for the rest of them. The re-homed roos adjusted very quickly and well to they new surroundings. One of my re-homed roos was the sweetness of my flock – he was always different – my buttercup Big Boy.
If you are thinking of re-homing roosters via shipping roosters – here is a blog on what it does cost etc.

Disappeared hen was broody with hidden nest

For those who remember about the missing buff a few weeks ago:

Today, July 22, I was checking the greenhouse making sure all the chicks were back inside the run after foraging  before closing up for the middle of the day and -> I found a nest with 5 eggs in it. Hard to see …

Not a new nest, the eggs at least did not look freshly laid – and I knew – that buff that went missing a few weeks ago – that was her, she was broody with a mind of her own after all. If I had not seen a splash foraging about in that area and was making sure she was no longer there – it would have been a long time before I found them.

It is a bittersweet end to a little story: I had noticed a buff missing one afternoon, no matter how many times I counted, one was simply not there. I vaguely remembered one of them clucking like a broody briefly one afternoon, only there was no additional broody on a nest. I didn’t think much more of it at the time. Then, a day or 2 later, when a buff went missing and I mentioned it on facebook, a few folks said: she is off on a nest somewhere. I looked around “everywhere” reasonable, nothing, but I was hopeful. And then, a few days later, I found her – taken and eaten the same way as the roosters. Only that there was all that fresh looking soaked grain in her crop – as if she’d just eaten a little while ago, within 24 hours. Anyway, I was confused as to what really happened and worried that the predator was taking them not just in the very early morning, but in the day now, while they forage and that he’d come back for his prey.

And then today I found the nest in the greenhouse. So the “guys” who said she was gonna show up with babies were sorta right. That would have been a very nice surprise after 3 weeks her showing up with the babies. I never checked the greenhouse because at the time, the greenhouse was not open to the chickens and I did not know one of them had figured out a way in and out … (easy once she figured it out).

It is more sad in a way, that she was taken while assembling her clutch. On the other hand, she was doing what her instinct told her, and as in nature, there are predators out there. She musta been out early one morning. She was being her best chicken self – gone now.

So the lessons: when a hen disappears and there is no body and no feathers, it really is possible that she is just hiding being broody on a nest.

As for me, I am just a tad less worried for them during the day …. that is good, though not enough to relax my routine.

And finding the clutch puts an end to wondering what happened …. sweet girl.

Blacky

Beautiful Blacky – actually gorgeous Black “Blue” Andalusian: “Big Blacky” no longer needs a home – he has gone home.

This morning (it is July 11, 2013) as I walked down the driveway I found myself thinking – I don’t think Blacky is crowing, maybe he is done already for the morning? The others were, but then I was not 100% sure. I didn’t think anything more of it because ever since his close call the other day I made sure both gates from the orchard to the rooster run are closed. But then, when he wasn’t greeting me at the gate that separates the rooster run from the main run – like he does every morning – and when he was nowhere to be seen – I went looking and the rooster run was empty – no feathers anywhere. Blacky isn’t like that – even if for some reason he was in a tree – he’d come around when he sees me – as each and every time.

nothing

I went looking – and found some of his feathers – that wouldn’t be so bad – but there was blood. I searched more – and found his head, then his body. Whatever got him was hungry …his comb half gone, his wattles, the neck-meat, one entire breast, thigh and part of the leg …

Strangely enough, while looking for him I found Brother-cat – who had been missing and thought quite ill, or dead. He was close to his body actually, but looked too ill to be the culprit. He is at the vet now and – ending up staying there with fluid in his lungs …

I do not know how it was that Blacky was out there – unless the doors are open, he does not go, and lately they have been closed except when i let them into the orchard a few days ago …but i think whatever is prowling gets into the run and then he manages to get out …but this time he must have decided to run rather than fly into a tree, who knows.

I loved it when you were up there – and you did too 🙂

 

I had plans for him for breeding next year  – since he seemed so good the time he accidentally ended up with some of the girls in the orchard. Some of the hens were not opposed to him. He got along with his daytime rooster buddies. He always had a buddy or 2, or 5 or 9, depending when….and it worked out well. When Mama Fayoumi and her 5 chicks went into the orchard – he was just fine with that, not bothering her or the chicks. That was so nice to see after suspicions of being rough on the buffs last year.

He did so well with the females

 

Blacky with some buffs in April 2013

I remember yesterday morning – all the (3) roosters got treats, he did too and i gave them food and fresh water. In the afternoon, while the girls get to free range – they got to go into the compost run and see the rest of the flock (through the chicken wire door that is) and peck around  and I always throw some extra grains – which they then all peck together – albeit on different sides of the run.

Blacky – you were a joy to me – thank you great spirit or whoever for letting him be in my live. My human is crying – and my soul takes it as a reminder: be kind to everything you meet, take the time, learn to be more compassionate while you have this body and this world to work with. All that is – only is like that one this one time. I will miss your plaintive voice Blacky – I know what your were telling me …next year …but then you left ….

Go ahead -wake us up

Blacky – I loved you – and admired you, your beauty, posture and feathers so many times. And you were never mean. I remember hand-feeding you in the coop for 3 days when your hormones spiked and you could not stop running when your feet hit the ground. You learned to trust me then, you who were the biggest of the chicks and often off by yourself….and I learned about flighty and the transient nature of hormone spikes in roosters – or maybe the thunder spooked you too, on top of that. I miss you going on the roof of the greenhouse – and your crowing. – I don’t know if you have a separate spirit or if you went back to the void as your life stopped flowing  through your body. I am making good use of it, for the dogs, the sick cat, myself and you are resting in the field, able to nourish it too. You were VERY healthy, in case you didn’t know. I miss you, and as those of you guys before – your leaving is a reminder of the impermanence of this world, the shortness of this life, and a reminder to make good use of it. I gave you the best rooster-life i could. In the end, you got spared being transported in a dog crate and taken and “harvested”. Maybe it is better to go down fighting, or, more likely in your case, running. I don’t know, but it is nature’s way.

Blacky loved going on the roof of the old greenhouse structure.

 

With his old buddies

 

He still matured after this
One glorious morning – Blacky on the “roof”
Just a few days ago, July 8 – the 3 bachelor roos got to go into the compost run, this other flock in the front.
Blacky at 12 weeks, out into the garden field
Blacky and my mom, visiting from German in October 2012
As a baby
Blacky on his roosting spot as seen through the coop – you liked it there well enough, even though you’d have rather gone in – it’s just that it was too much for the girls, bare-backed as some are …. but you talked to them on the other side 🙂

Just one more thing – I had a chick in my first run of 27 who had pasty butt – I probably saw it after 12 hours, and/but she pooped a lot after treatment. She was not well however and ate slowly …and I might have make matters worse the way I tried to dropper feed her. Today, I’d do it like I just did with cutie-pie and her food problem and general weakness.

Blacky and Sweet Angel in the dish – if you do still exist somewhere, maybe you can run and fly together. It is a nice dream anyway.

Anyway, this little fayoumi was getting weaker, and far from attacking her, one of the chicks was always with her – and Blacky was one of them. He stayed with her quite a long time. Blacky and Sweet Angel – if you do still exist somewhere, maybe you can run and fly together. It is a nice dream anyway.

Many people will not understand, they’ll call it sentimental or attachment…and besides, he is gone now, dead, not suffering anymore.  After all, it was “just” a bird, running on automatic programs. Ya, most of it all was just an instinctual program – and yet, the same intelligence, the spirit that runs through all creation, ran through him – and I met him – spirit expressed as him and uniquely him for all times and so I met, through him, the divine dimension of the Universe manifested as what came to be known as “Blacky”. And so I honor him with this page – on the day he went back.

The human in me misses him – and my soul recognizes and walks a step closer towards compassion. Thank you Big Blacky.

The next day: I always knew I didn’t want to send you to slaughter, but I can’t believe how much I miss you there and hearing you …. and how regrettable it is you won’t be there next spring for your own flock. Yet another lesson for me, a reminder: we only always have the moment – NOW.

Why I added a chicken cooling fan in this HEAT

placed the fan in a way that would not freak anyone out – that would be very counter productive in this heat.

We are in the midst of a week of triple digit heat with temperature at night in the high seventies. I pretty much explained what can be done to help chickens beat this heat here, and I have been doing all of it – except the fan – until today, and here is why:

Little background on philosophy: I got 2 straight run chickens last year: 1 – heat tolerant foraging egg layers – light Mediterranean  and 2 – a Mediterranean dual purpose breed that puts real good weight on (because someone was gonna take the roosters and had good experience with them).

So we have this heat wave and I have a sitting hen – one of the Buff Catalana dual purpose birds –  who is sitting on 13 eggs due in 4 days, at the end of this heatwave – and this morning she is sitting there PANTING at 830 AM. This is a new thing – she is in the shade, has cold water, is in a misted area. My large water bottles are not yet frozen to be placed close to her – but I feel bad for her: she really is too heavy for this weather, even with a large comb and wattle for a chicken hen, and she is sitting, and it is not like she choose to live in this habitat – I made her – and so I feel bad for her and  get her a fan from my room,  which “coincidentally” was returned that some morning because the person using it got a working air conditioner the day before,  even though my philosophy, in the vein of keep the flock healthy and resilient in a natural setting, has been: if they cannot tolerate the heat with plenty of shade, rest and fresh cool water, then they are not the kind of heat tolerant chickens I meant and nature shall prevail.

While I have no plans to get more of this breed, but she is here now, trying to hatch chicks and she is in distress in a kind of heat I never expected  – and that is why I am giving her a fan – and because I can.

You can barely see the fan from the inside of the run, but definitely feel the breeze

HEAT – leave your chickens alone in hot weather

Why I leave my chickens alone for hours during the day in the heat:

i noticed that whenever i go to the run after any amount of absence, they all come from wherever they are and crowd at the gate waiting for treats or to get out….this activity is NOT helpful & since i do NOT want to feed them during the day in this heat (produces more internal heat), even adding more ice cubes to the drinking water after the 10:30 11 am water change is not worth it to me to disturb whatever they are doing to beat this heat …which is pretty much sitting on the ground (hosed down each morning) in the shade under the bushes or near any other vegetation (seems to be cooler in vegetation shades areas). i do not want them to freak out about anyting – so they don;t get to free range during the day either. it is already VERY VERY HOT at 10:30. i did what i could, the mister is on in the coop run and will see them in the evening. so far so good – & i AM glad i got breeds that are considered heat tolerant.

 

will see how the summer goes – the real heat is still coming

Heat and Chickens – what can you do to help them “Beat the Heat”

Can chickens die from heat – being overheated? – YES – and there are things you can do to help them be ok.

chicks can get hot too

Even heat tolerant light Mediterranean breeds can have some difficulty during a heat wave, but especially large meat and dual purpose birds with small combs and wattles can get into serious trouble. When the temperature gets into the 80ties, chickens will start to spread their wings to try to cool off. They might start panting. Perspiration only happens through combs, feet and wattles. Chickens can have a heat stroke or heart attack. In an emergency: dunk your chicken into cool water to cool it off….If they start to look droopy, pale, panting …. they need to cool off.

Here are  things you can do to help your chickens deal with the heat
.. .like the heatwaves that are happening everywhere:

Provide shade – make sure they have plenty of it. If you don’t have natural shade, use something like a tarp and spread it over the area they stay in.

ADD WATER EVERYWHERE – not just extra drinking water. Wet  ground is cooler, so hosing down the run or hang-our area is cooling. Wading pools that form cool them off if they walk through them and you can try to hose down the coop roof – even though it gets hot again soon afterwards.

Water and more Water – Have lots of COOL water available – make sure it is placed in the shade, and at least 15 degrees F cooler than the chicken’s body  temperature. You might have to change it once or twice a day, or add chuncks of ice to it to keep it cool. I give fresh cool water in the evening and then again at 1030 am, at which point the chunks of ice get added. Put the water where you know they hang out, they may not walk to it across the yard.  Several water stations are helpful. Leaving a hose dripping does not work with all hoses – if it is too long and the water gets hot by the time it drips out, they will not drink it, and neither should they – just be aware. The same might be true for pipes exposed to heat…test the water that comes out of watering nipples for coolness unless you have it set up where it stays cool.

Misting lowers the temperature about 15-20 degrees F – I got one for the laying area next to the coop. It happens to be where my broody hen sits too. So far it works great. They don’t really like to get sprayed on, so it is up high – and it does do a good job.

Feeding: try soaked grains as they already contain more water  so less need to drink. Even 24 hours soaking will do. I do kitchen scraps at around 7 am, they contain more water than grains, no corn at all during the day or heatwave to help decrease the internal heating production.

Switch to grower or starter feed in the summer as it contains more protein so they need to eat less. Add the oyster shell or egg shells for calcium. The main meal is in the evening. Chickens will also naturally eat less during the heat – and eventually egg production will go down.

ActivityReducing heat production – Try to keep any stressful activities away.  Chickens have a naturally high heart and respiratory rates and they lay an unnaturally amount of eggs – some one a day (nothing you do about that). Mine often pant while they are at it though – it is work. Any fighting, panic and running has them panting a LOT- this means stress to the cardio-respiratory system – and it increases body heat on top of that. Digesting food produces internal heat, especially corn, (which is why i use it in the winter time). No scaring them, doing stressful procedures or visitors, nothing that will make them run around or fight (the worst). I leave them alone from 11:30 am – 7 pm when they are usually ready to do some foraging and eating.

Good ventilation – and  if you have electric in your coop, you can add a fan. Open windows/doors if that cools the coop.

Frozen water bottles – can be placed inside the coop to cool the area around them.

STAY COOL – and remember, other wildlife needs water too – in case yo have a water station somewhere for songbirds & other critters – 🙂

She loves birds – in this or any other world, I wish to remember birds

 

 

 

Moulting – causes and what it is

a slow molt

I got a little worried when my first chicken stared to look funny around the head and neck. So I went online to find information on it. Here are some of those pages/posts and links.

—– posted by sandy on the poultry site in 2008 Molting …http://fowlfacts.proboards40.com/ind… y&thread=773– this link does no longer work but leads to a new one.Importance of feather lossFeather-loss generally is a natural process with fowls. However, aside from the aesthetics, feather loss is important as an indicator of problems in the flock. These could be nutritional, medical, environmental, social or welfare in nature but they indicate a problem with the management of the flock. Most remedies for feather loss require alteration of flock management.

Economically, plumage deterioration results in increased food consumption and hence less efficient egg production. Thus a substantial improvement in plumage condition will be of appreciable economic value to the producer.

Table 1 summarises the various causes of feather loss, identifying the prime factors involved and the remedy required.

Moulting
This is a physiological phenomenon, which consists of the shedding of existing feathers, followed by replacement with new feather growth. It is usually accompanied by a reduction in egg production or even a complete halt.

Natural moulting
Prior to obtaining adult plumage, fowls at several stages during their life undergo a number of moults where the old feathers are replaced by new feathering.

First moult �
when down is replaced by the first juvenile plumage occurring at 6-8 days and ending at 4 weeks.
Second moult �
when the first juvenile plumage is replaced by the second juvenile plumage. This occurs over a number of weeks starting between 7 and 12 weeks of age.
Third moult �
occurs in the hen at 16 to 18 months. This is the ‘moult’ of most importance for producers.

In the laying hen, natural moulting occurs at the time of year when the days are getting shorter, ie. from January to June. Hormones secreted by the thyroid gland determine the course of the moult. The use of artificial lighting to maintain a constant daylength can be used to avoid this natural moult. This occurs principally by altering the daylength ‘hormone-clock’ within the bird.

Moult characteristics
Male birds moult before females. Shedding is first observed in the feathers of the head and neck, then those of the breast and finally of tail and wings. Moults can be partial (occurring on particular body parts) or complete. The extent of moulting depends upon the breed and the individual bird. The length of the moult is variable, poor layers reconstitute their plumage in 6-8 weeks while good layers following a pause in laying can replace their feathers in 2-4 weeks.

Physiologically, the stop in egg production allows more dietary protein to become available for production of feathers which are primarily proteins themselves. Oestrogen, a hormone released during egg production, retards feather formation. Cessation of lay reduces oestrogen levels so that feather formation is enhanced.

Induced – paused (forced moult)
This is a management strategy to extend the economic life of layer flocks. It principally involves feeding whole grain barley or oats for 5-21 days depending on the required length of the subsequent laying period. The strategy has advantages in rejuvenating egg production, improving internal quality (raises Haugh units) and shell quality in older birds. During the induced – pause, laying can stop with some feather loss occurring.

Vices

Feather-pecking
Feather loss can be caused by vices such as feather-pecking. Once established it is difficult to control and prevention is the best remedy. Social order pecking occurs primarily at the head and is not severe. Severe feather pecking due to overcrowding, lighting problems and unbalanced diets will hurt the bird.

Cannibalism
With feather-pecking any subsequent injury with drawing of blood will attract further pecking leading to cannibalism. To prevent cannibalism it is best to isolate the sick or victim bird from the flock or cage. The injured bird should have cuts treated with antiseptic powder and the wound should be coloured with a dark food dye or Stockholm tar to reduce further pecking attacks by other birds. Alternatively the victim birds can be dusted with a repellent. Beak-trimming or purchase of beak-trimmed stock will reduce the likelihood of feather-pecking and cannibalism especially if problems associated with lighting, stocking density and nutrition have been corrected. In addition it has been observed that some breeds of birds are more likely to feather-peck than others.

Wear and tear

Abrasion

Feather loss is also caused by rubbing against other birds or surroundings, particularly if the birds are closely confined. To reduce feather loss stocking densities should be lowered and all sharp and rough surfaces in a cage eliminated. Alternative cage materials may also assist, in that feathers wear away at different rates when mechanically rubbed against different types of cage materials.

Mating

During mating the hen may lose feathers by the rooster treading the hen. The feathers are torn from the hen’s back by the rooster’s claws. To reduce this feather loss the rooster’s claws need to be trimmed with nail clippers. The rooster’s spurs can be trimmed to about 1.5 cm in length with secateurs.

Stress

A number of factors act as stressors which can contribute to a cessation of egg production and the onset of a moult. Generally a lack of food or water is the most frequent stress causing feather loss. Poorly balanced diets or mouldy feed can also bring on moulting. Lack of cool, clean water even for a short time can cause birds to moult. To minimise this an emergency backup water-supply is advisable. Feather loss can also be caused by chilling, overheating and poor ventilation. A good housing environment will eliminate temperature extremes and still provide good ventilation for the birds. Ill-health either from injury, disease, parasitism or bullying may also contribute to moulting. Medication and regular monitoring of birds will minimise stress and reduce further feather loss.

Table 1. Prime causes of feather loss and their remedy

Cause of feather loss and Prime factos involved = Remedy

Moulting

Natural molt � Decreasing day length from January to June = Maintain constant day length by use of artifical lighting with adequate wattage

Induced molt � pause molt � Feeding whole grain barley or oats = A management strategy; return toa balanced diet

Vices

Feather picking � Social order = Occurs ususally at the head, no treatment is required unless severe

Severe Feather picking � severe pecking due to overcrowding, strong lighting or dietary imbalances = occurs at other body parts, prevention is the best remedy. This is attained by providing adequate lighting, continuous access to balanced diets and reduction in overcrowding. Change bred of bird used. Isolate victim birds, provide antispetic treatments for cuts. Color wound with dye, not red as it attracts further pecking. Beak trim birds when young. Purchase birds already trimmed

Cannibalism = flow on from pecking

Wear and Tear

Abrasions � Rubbing against other birds or surroundings = Lower stock densities. Use alternatie cage materials. Eliminate all rough and sharp surfaces in pen

Mating � Roosters claws in the hen�s back = Trim roosters claws with nail clippers

Stress
Food � lacck of good food = Provide a balanced diet. Remove old or mouldy food

Water � lack of cool water even for a short period = Always provide access to cool clean water

Climatic environment � Overheating � Chilling � Ventilation = Provide a uniform climatic environment which eliminates temperature extremes while providing adwquate ventilation to reduce ammonia build up

Ill health � parasites, disease, injury, bullying = Eliminate problem with management and medication and monitor affected birds

References and further reading
ANON (1989) ‘Keeping Poultry’ Department of Agriculture Tasmania.
KENT, P (1988) ‘Poultry – household layers’
SAY, RR (1987) ‘Manual of poultry production in the tropics’ CAB International.
To access DPI’s information and services
DPI Call Centre 8 am to 6 pm weekdays: Phone 13 25 23 (Queensland residents); non-Queensland residents phone +61 7 3404 6999; E-mail callweb@dpi.qld.gov.au.
This DPI Note is also published on the DPI’s PrimeNotes CD-ROM. http://www.dpi.qld.gov.au/business/5542.html

Information contained in this publication is provided as general advice only. For application to specific circumstances, professional advice should be sought. The Department of Primary Industries Queensland has taken all reasonable steps to ensure the information in this publication is accurate at the time of publication. Readers should ensure that they make appropriate inquiries to determine whether new information is available on the particular subject matter.

 

another one

 

Moulting – how, when and why chickens moult

During autumn, many household poultry keepers, particularly people keeping poultry for the first time, are puzzled because egg production markedly declines or ceases despite their laying birds appearing healthy. This seasonal decline in egg production occurs when birds go into a condition known as the ‘moult’.

Moulting is the process of shedding and renewing feathers. During the moult, the reproductive physiology of the bird has a complete rest from laying and the bird builds up its body reserves of nutrients.

The provision of new feathers or a coat (a feature inherent in most animals) is a natural process, designed by nature to maintain a bird’s ability to escape enemies by flight and better protect against cold winter conditions.

Under usual conditions, adult birds moult once a year. Some may moult twice in one year and, rarely, once in two years.

The pullet

The chick goes through one complete and three partial moults during its growth to point of lay. Generally, complete moulting occurs from 1-6 weeks of ag, and partial moulting at 7-9 weeks, 12-16 weeks and 20-22 weeks. During this final moult, the stiff tail feathers grow.

The laying hen

Mature birds normally undergo one complete moult a year, usually in autumn. However, this can depend on the time of the year that the bird started laying. Natural moulting usually begins sometime during March or April and should be completed by July when egg production recommences. The three main factors that bring about moulting are:

  • physical exhaustion and fatigue
  • completion of the laying cycle (as birds lay eggs for a certain period of time)
  • reduction of the day length, resulting in reduced feeding time and consequent loss of body weight.

Eleven months of continuous production is expected from pullets hatched in season. So if a flock of pullets commences laying in March at six months of age, they should continue laying until the following February, although an occasional bird may moult after laying for a few weeks. However, these few birds should begin laying again after June 22 (the shortest day of the year) and continue in production until the following autumn. Pullets coming into lay in June should lay until the following April, giving 11 months of continuous egg production without the aid of artificial light. Pullets coming into lay in spring (August) should lay well into April (nine months); however, unless artificial lighting is provided, most of them will moult during May and June.

Moulting and nutrition

If a bird stops laying and moulting, this means its physical condition is deteriorating and, therefore, cannot support egg production, continued nourishment of their feathers or body maintenance. Feathers contain protein and are more easily grown when laying ceases because of the difficulty in assimilating sufficient protein for both egg and feather production. During the moult, the fowl still needs a considerable amount of good quality food to replace feathers and build up condition.

Good layers and moulting

The time at which a laying hen ceases production and goes into moult is a reliable guide as to whether or not the hen is a good egg producer. Poor producing hens moult early (November-December), and take a long time to complete the process and resume laying i.e. they ‘hang’ in the moult and are out of production for six to seven months. Poor producers seldom cast more than a few feathers at a time and rarely show bare patches.

High-producing hens moult late and for a short period (no more than 12 weeks), and come back into production very quickly. Rapid moulting is seen not only in the wing feathers of good producers, but also in the loss of body feathers generally. Because of this, it is common to see a late and rapid moulting hen practically devoid of feathers and showing many bare patches over its body.

The moulting process

 

Moulting - order of feather loss
Figure 1. The moulting process

Moulting takes place in a particular order. Feathers are confined to definite tracts or areas of the body surface, with bare patches of skin between. The first plumage is lost from the head and neck, then from the saddle, breast and abdomen (body), then from the wings and finally from the tail.

When the first feathers drop from the neck and body, good layers often keep laying. However, when the wing feathers begin to drop, laying usually ceases.

The main wing feathers comprise 4 tiny finger feathers on the extreme tip of the wing, 10 large primary or ‘flight’ feathers, a small axial feather and 14 secondary feathers, which are smaller and softer than the primaries.

When the wing moults, primary feathers are shed first from the axial outwards to the end of the wing. Then the secondaries are shed, though not in such a set order as the primaries. The number one primary feather is the first to drop, followed by a number two and then in order to number 10. While the primaries are shed, the secondaries begin to drop.

The axial feather drops at the same time as the secondary next to it. A new quill starts to grow as soon as the old feather is out, and takes approximately six to seven weeks to grow. The moult is complete when all primary flight feathers on the wing have been replaced. The feathers of the moulted bird are larger, fuller, softer, cleaner, brighter and glossier than the previous feathers, which were small, hard, dry, frayed and tattered.

 

The difference between a rapid and slow moulter is not a difference in the growth rate of the individual feather, but the fact that the rapid moulter renews a large number of feathers at the same time. With this knowledge, the rate of moulting can be ascertained by examining the number of flight feathers on the wing being replaced simultaneously. If a hen is found to have grown some of her primaries before starting to moult her secondaries, it may be assumed that she laid well into the moult and was therefore a good layer.

Sometimes, high producing hens do not moult all their primary feathers but carry them on for another year. Generally, a layer moults when production ceases; although, if the bird has an inherited tendency for high production, moulting will probably precede cessation of production, and conversely if she is a poor producer. Modern laying breeds should moult in late autumn because they have been bred specifically for egg production, i.e. to lay at a higher rate and for a longer period of time.

 

A laying bird that lays regularly usually retains old feathers. If a hen ceases production for any reason other than mild sickness or broodiness, it loses its feathers.

If a hen ceases production during spring or summer, it may moult one or two primaries and then stop moulting, and come into lay again. This is known as a vacation moult. When the hen starts its full moult later in autumn, it drops the next feather in sequence and moults in order of the remaining primaries.

A bird may sometimes experience a neck or partial moult without any loss of production. However, if the moulting extends beyond the neck moult stage, the hen ceases production.

The presence of ‘pin’ feathers (new emerging feathers) usually indicates a short or partial moult.

Some birds moult continuously and can be easily detected in the flock by the spotless condition of their new feathers. These birds are poor producers and should be culled.

Stress factors and moulting

Natural moults can occur any time of the year if birds are subjected to stress. A bird becomes stressed when the environment or management presents a challenge to which the bird cannot respond without suffering a harmful effect. If a hen is subjected to a mild stress condition in late spring when in full production, she will suffer a drop in egg production; whereas, if a hen is subjected to the same stress condition in autumn, it will cease laying and moult.

Common stress factors that can induce moulting include disease, temperature extremes, poor nutrition, predators and poor management. These are discussed in more detail in a separate article (see Further reading below).

Production and moulting

After moulting, birds in their second year of egg production will produce 10-30 per cent less than in their first year of lay, as the lay rate is lower and the birds cease to lay earlier in the following autumn. Birds that have moulted twice and are laying for their third year produce only 70-80 per cent of their second year’s eggs (about 60 per cent of their first year’s production).

Moulting cockerels

Cockerels also moult and, while in this condition, are nearly always infertile because they have lost weight and their reproductive physiology is in a resting phase. Care must be taken to ensure that cockerels do not lose more than 25 per cent of their body weight while moulting, as this can lead to sterility.

Advantages and disadvantages

The four main advantages of keeping hens during the moult and the following year are that:

  • it is cheaper to carry a bird through a moult than buy replacement pullets
  • fewer replacement pullets may be needed and buying can often be deferred, which means saving money, time and transport
  • moulted birds are hardier and not as prone to disease
  • only high-producing, efficient birds will be retained if strict culling is undertaken during the first year.

The main disadvantage of keeping the hens is that, although moulted birds eat less feed than pullets, they lay less eggs. Overall, their conversion of feed into eggs – and feed cost per dozen eggs – is higher.

Other disadvantages are that:

  • during the moult, they continue to eat but remain unproductive
  • they are not as tender to eat if they are slaughtered for the table after two years of laying
  • too few birds may be retained to provide sufficient eggs the following year.

Year-round laying and moulting

Year-round egg production can be achieved through the purchase of pullets in autumn at point-of-lay. This provides sufficient eggs while the older birds are moulting. When the pullets’ rate of lay declines in the summer, the additional eggs from the moulted birds should sustain an adequate supply. The following autumn, the older birds can be slaughtered for the table, the best pullets can be allowed to moult, and another lot of pullets on point-of-lay can be purchased. This allows for 20 per cent pullet wastage due to deaths and culling. Only 70 per cent of the normal pullet requirements need to be purchased and, at the same time, a relatively constant year-round supply of eggs is guaranteed.

Acknowledgment

This article is derived from the Western Australian Department of Agriculture Farmnote 3/79, January 1979, and is used with permission.

feather loss:

http://www.daff.qld.gov.au/27_2704.htm

 

Toxic foods for chickens

got treats?

Generally, you’d think birds know what is good for them and what is not – except maybe not -> chickens have been known to eat styrofoam pellets and plastic. Most toxic foods also don’t leave the bird dead the next day but cause organ damage and illness. In any case, here are some foods to avoid feeding your chickens:

  • Raw green potato peels    -> Toxic substance called Solanine.
  • Anything real salty     -> Can cause salt poisoning in small bodies such as chickens.
  • Dried or undercooked Beans     -> Raw, or dry beans, contain a poison called hemaglutin which is toxic to birds.
  • Avocado Skin and Pit    -> Skin and pit toxic to birds.
  • Chocolate  –  chocolate can be poisonous to most pets.

There is a question about apple seeds – and yes, there is cyanide in them but you don’t have to go as far as taking out all the apple cores in your orchards apples 😉

Fermented chicken feeds

I first really heard about fermented feeds as something to seriously consider on a story-thread on backyardchickens.com where someone (Beekissed) within a few weeks brought back to thriving health chickens rescued from severe neglect, malnourished and infested with parasites – without resorting to medications. I am using some of her advice as well as other sources from the web in this post.

My main reason to start now is: one of my buff catalana pullets is a little runt about 1/2 the size of her sisters. She hesitates too long when at the food source to compete with the others. So I am looking to get her a little more advantage. Also, I heard one needs a LOT less feed if fermented food is used.

What is fermentation?

The fermentation process uses naturally occurring bacteria to partially break down food, improving its enzyme content and increasing the levels of some vitamins, as B, C and K. It  makes food more digestible and boosts the “usable” protein level by about 12 percent.

Kefir, yogurt &  sauerkraut are just some of the fermented food you may be familiar with. Peoepl all over the world have been using fermented food for hundreds of years.

In simple words: fermentation of the feed is as if it becomes somewhat predigested, making some nutrients in the feed more available and easier digestable  and absorbed by a monogastric animal such as a chicken. This makes the food more used, rather than just being passed through. Incidentally – the food does not seem to spoil.

It is said that it leads to better bowel health due to more villi being present in the bowel.  More villi means more blood supply, which results in better nutrient absorption from the available feeds passing through the small intestine.

So what changes can you expect to see if you feed fermented foods?

  • The chickens need less food

Easier to absorb, food more available and more villi -> Depending what portion of feed you give as fermented – up to 1/2 or 3/4 less – that would be significant.

  • Their poops are more solid and reportedly less smelly – a side effect.

My chicken’s poop does not smell very bad, but if this means it won’t smell at all – GREAT. will see.

  • Your chickens will have better health overall.
The introduction of good live cultures also helps inhibit the overgrowth of more harmful pathogens such as coccidia, salmonella, e.coli, etc.
From Beekissed: ” Yet another good side effect of having this healthier bowel structure, blood supply, and good bacteria is a decrease in parasite infestation.  The more digestive enzymes there are, the better the digestive action is. This creates a “hostile environment” for parasites, and thus they can not thrive inside your chickens.  Parasites thrive better in an unhealthy bird with an unhealthy bowel.
This is important to know when you are thinking of de-worming your chickens:   One has to ask, “How did my chickens’ health get to such a state that it has an infestation?”  Take care of your chickens’ health and the other problems ~ visible worms being shed in the feces, etc. ~ will right themselves.  All mammals have a parasite present in their bodies/bowels, but you will rarely see evidence of it in the fecal matter unless there is an overgrowth.  When is the last time you looked in your toilet and saw long, white worms in your poop?  This does not mean you have no worms, it merely means you have them but you are not infested with a large population of them.
Same with chickens.  It’s expected that chickens will have some level of intestinal parasites, but never enough to affect their health or production.  All animals have them and they thrive anyway.  The key is not to try to get all the worms out of your chickens ~ if the conditions are that lovely for their infestation, they’ll just be back.  Rather, the goal should be to create such a healthy chicken that the worms can not get a foothold inside them and colonize enough to cause problems.”
  • Reportedly the egg yolks are larger and the egg shells harder

i can’t complain of small egg yolks or soft shells in my chickens, but ok.

  • gives extra fluid to the chickens

if they learn to like it, that would be great, especially for the summer -and yes, it is great for the summer.

So HOW do you make it?

you will need

  • a container – for my first try, I am using a Mason jar
  • chicken feed – for my first try, I am using starter crumbles – later i found out that grains are better for fermenting as I like to throw them onto the garden beds they are working for me. Soaked mash crumbles are not as good for that.
  • apply cider vinegar with “the mother” Bragg organic apple cider vinegar is easily available. Later you just reuse part of the water each time. Works for me.
  • temperature around 68-70 is good, freezing temp outside would not work.
  • a towel might be needed unless you use a 2 bucket method to drain water. I ended up just hand-scooping the fermented grains out add some water and fresh grains.

There are various ways to go about it. This is my first try and I used just over a cup of started crumbles, water and 1/4 cup of Bragg apple cider vinegar. Probably too much vinegar?? Will stir a couple of times, take out feed the next day and squeeze the liquid out.

how long: 8-48 hours, depending what you use, you can use crumbles, layer feed, scratch – since this is already all soft – I will feed it at the latest in the morning. A minimum of about 8 hours seems to be the consensus.

There is a 2 bucket method for feed allotments for 15 or 20 chickens for 1-2 days – later 🙂

You’ll learn to recognize the ferment smell and look for the telltale bubbles real quick.